Filed under Seed Starting, Seed Starting and Cut Flower Production Calendar September by on Sep 28th, 2011. Comment.
I’m often asked how I start seeds. I took some photos to illustrate the process the other night. So, here is my tried and true seed starting process.
I use small plastic containers with lids. I buy these containers at the dollar store. There are 10 in each package. The package costs $1. The containers are washable, easy to sterilize with hydrogen peroxide and easy to store when not in use. I sit them inside a flat when I am germinating seeds so I can keep all the little containers together and move them easily to check the seeds.
These are luffa seeds on damp paper towels inside the little containers. As you can see they have germianted and are ready to be planted. This method helps prevent waste because you know every single seed you plant is germinated. When you direct sow, you end up with empty spaces where seeds did not germinate leaving you to wonder what happened. Many seeds take weeks, months or even years to germinate. Using this method saves room as well.
Once your seed is germianted, it is time to choose where you will plant the seed. I move them into peat pots filled with my favorite seed starting and growing on mix that I make myself.
This is a peat pot filled with my seed starting and growing on mix which is a combination of peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. I add enough perlite and vermiculite so both products are easily visiable to me. For plants, such as cactus that need better drainage, simply add more perlite or vermiculite. The soil is damp, but notice I do not dampen the peat pot at this point.
The next step is to carefully pick up the seed with tweezers making sure not to grab hold of the stem, root or leaves and lay it on top of the soil mixture. If the root is long, as the case is here with this luffa seed, use the tweezers or a pencil to poke a small hole into the soil and lay the root in the hole. Gently press the soil against the root.
Once the seed in place on top of the soil, sprinkle it with vermiculite.
Make sure the entire seed is covered. Do not pour a lot of vermiculite on top of the seed, just put enough so you can no longer see the seed or its root system.
Place the peat pots into a flat filled with water. The peat pots and the vermiculite will soak up the water quickly enough that the seeds roots will not be damaged. It is important to keep the peat pots moist. If they dry out, they will wick the water away from the plants roots and you will end up with a dead plant.
This is what a healthy root system looks like. As you can see the plants roots will grow outside the peat pot. This is what you want to happen. This plant is ready to be potted up into a larger container or moved outdoors into the garden. When planting this peat pot, be sure all parts of the pot are under ground level so moisture is not wicked up above the soil surface where fast evaporation will occur.
Want to know more? Check out From Seed To Harvest on Amazon.com
Filed under Seed Starting by on Mar 6th, 2011. Comment.

Hi, I’m Sheri Ann Richerson, co-author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Year-Round Gardening.
Today we are talking about the proper placement of grow lights. Grow lights are especially useful for indoor plants, but also help illuminate greenhouses on cloudy days offering the plants a source of adequate lighting when natural sunlight is not available. In addition to using grow lights, expose the seedlings or plants to natural light if possible.
Filed under Seed Starting by on Jan 17th, 2011. 4 Comments.
Baby, it’s cold outside, but spring is just around the corner, so even if you don’t garden year-round outdoors, now is the time to prepare for spring. Getting a head start on the growing season indoors will insure your garden lights the landscape up come spring.
Make a list of what you want to grow, take inventory of what you have, then sit down with your seed catalogs and order what you want. Don’t wait too late in the season because not only might you be faced with items you want being sold out for the season, but your order may arrive long past the time when seed starting should take place.
Most seeds are started 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost in your area. This time frame varies though depending on the type of seeds you are sowing and how soon in the season you want them to bloom. For example, I am sowing tomato seeds right now even though it is only January and the last frost in my area is May 15th. The reason? I will plant them outdoors, under cover, in the cold frame around the end of March or the beginning of April and begin harvesting tomatoes earlier than most people.
While you are waiting for your seeds to arrive, wash all your old seed starting containers in hot, soapy water and give them a final rinse with hydrogen peroxide. This cleans and sterilizes them. Starting with clean pots is essential to the health of seedlings.
Set your grow lights up. They should be a mere 6 inches above the top of the seedlings. This keeps the seedlings from getting leggy, which happens when the seedlings do not receive adequate light. Leggy seedlings are very tall and skinny. Sometimes they will make it, but the grown plant will not look as nice as one that had everything it needed as a seedling.
If you make your own soil, get it ready and if you buy it, go ahead and do that. Keep the soil warm so it does not shock the seedlings when you transplant them.
If you use the paper towel germination method, make sure you have plenty of paper towels and containers or plastic bags to put them in.

Want to know more? Check out The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Year-Round Gardening.
If you want to check the book out before buying it, download a free sample chapter for the Kindle! Want to know even more about year-round gardening? Also be sure to join the Facebook fan page for The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Year-Round Gardening, where you can ask the co-author Sheri Ann Richerson all of your gardening questions.

For those of you with a Kindle or a Kindle reader for the PC or iPhone, another great read is a brand new Kindle Single release titled From Seed To Harvest, or join the Facebook fan club From Seed To Harvest.
Filed under Seed Starting, Year-Round Gardening by on Jan 6th, 2011. 9 Comments.
Today is the day to start seeds of dianthus, snapdragon and pansy. These seeds may be started indoors, direct sown in the ground under a cold frame or sown in containers using the winter sowing method.
Once those the seeds are germinated, learn how to move them from the house – or greenhouse – into the garden earlier than you thought possible, even before the last frost in your area! Pick up a copy of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Year-Round Gardening at http://astore.amazon.com/exoticgardeni-20/detail/1592579701
If you want to check the book out before buying it, download a free sample chapter for the Kindle – just use the link above! Want to know even more about year-round gardening? Also be sure to join the Facebook fan page, where you can ask the co-author Sheri Ann Richerson all of your gardening questions, at http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Complete-Idiots-Guide-To-Year-Round-Gardening/234510089666
Learn how to get the most out of your garden space, no matter how small, by learning how to garden year-round and make 2011 your most successful year in the garden yet – and let me help you accomplish that goal!
Filed under Annual Plants, Flower Gardening, Perennial Plants, Seed Starting by on Jan 3rd, 2011. 1 Comment.
There’s nothing quite like picking your own tomatoes on January 1, 2011! Today is also the first day of the year that gardeners can sow carrot seed under cover. The first video is of carrot seed being sown and the second one is of the tomato I found under the frost cover in the cold frame.
Filed under In The Greenhouse, Vegetable Gardening, Year-Round Gardening by on Jan 1st, 2011. 4 Comments.
How many carrots do you use in one year? Save money on your grocery bill by sowing seeds, starting right now, in a cold frame. As the carrots mature, preserve them by dehydration, canning, freezing or preserving them in a root cellar! You can even store them in the ground year-round!
Want to know more cool tips to extend the gardening season and get more from your garden even if you garden indoors? Order your copy of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Year-Round Gardening today at http://astore.amazon.com/exoticgardeni-20/detail/1592579701
There is a FREE download of a sample chapter available for the Kindle – just use the link above. Also be sure to join the Facebook fan page at http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Complete-Idiots-Guide-To-Year-Round-Gardening/234510089666
Make 2011 your most successful year in the garden yet – and let me help you accomplish that goal!
Filed under Seed Starting, Vegetable Gardening, Year-Round Gardening by on Jan 1st, 2011. 1 Comment.
Normally the winter garden is more lush, however due to unexpected circumstances and seeds that did not germinate well, it is rather sparse looking this year.
Filed under Vegetable Gardening, Year-Round Gardening by on Dec 7th, 2010. 2 Comments.
Filed under Bulbs, Tubers and Corms, Seed Starting by on Nov 14th, 2010. 2 Comments.

















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